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Leonor Fini: Unmasking the Being Inside - Features - Independent Art Fair

Portrait of Leonor Fini, c. 1938. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Leonor Fini (1907-1996) explained the action of unmasking as central to her art practice: “In a sense my paintings have always been my autobiography. A revealing autobiography because my paintings do not interpret either my conscious development or my experiences; rather, they ‘unmask’ a being inside of me (often with strange projections into the future).” Across her long career, from the late 1920s to the early 1990s, she enjoyed the game of the masquerade: where one performs for the other, partly to seduce partly to camouflage and always to veil the real. A dialogue between masking and unmasking remains a dominant feature of her experimentation in various media - from paintings and drawings to theatre designs, book illustrations and the extraordinary masks that she designed and often wore to masquerade balls, including the feline beaded mask Embroidered Cat Mask), and pink Chinoiserie Mask from the early 1960s. 

Fini was born in Buenos Aires of mixed Italian, Argentine and Slavic blood, raised in Trieste by her mother Malvina Braun, enjoyed meeting Giorgio de Chirico and the Novecento circle in Milan before electing to move to Paris in 1931 where her art soon merged Surrealism with Symbolism and Renaissance techniques to forge her own distinct style. In 1933 she exhibited at the Musée de Luxembourg alongside De Chirico, Carlo Carrà and Gino Severini, but by 1936 she was exhibiting in New York as a pioneering female Surrealist, showing alongside Max Ernst at the Julien Levy Gallery as well as in Alfred Barr’s major exhibition Fantastic Art, Dada, Surrealism at the MoMA. 

The idea of the mask and masquerade permitted Fini to bring her own voice to her European avant-garde circle as she drew on matriarchal mythology, witchcraft and fashion to challenge bourgeois morality and patriarchal norms. A well-read and highly intelligent woman versed in the German Romantics, including authors Achim von Arnim and Novalis, the philosophical writings of the Marquis de Sade and Friederich Nietzsche, as well as treatises on witchcraft, magic and psychoanalysis, she remained highly individualistic always, if Surrealist in her world view. As she explained, “In the widest sense, I believe that I was born a surrealist in the same way that certain painters of the past have created surreal works before the term was invented”. Masquerade offered the perfect vehicle to time and shape shift in her artistic subject-matter and style, and to emphasise that Surrealism itself could not be ‘fixed’ as one thing alone. Joan Rivière, the English psychoanalyst and well-known translator and interlocutor of the writings of Sigmund Freud, argued in Womanliness as a Masquerade (1929) a seminal essay for inter-war intellectuals,  that notions of the feminine and womanliness “could be assumed and worn as a mask, both to hide the possession of masculinity and to avert the reprisals expected if [a female] was found to possess it - much as a thief will turn out his pockets and ask to be searched to prove that he has not the stolen goods.” Rivière explains such masking as involving excessive feminine clothing, hair styles and makeup all to assuage the male fear of the new breed of independent, working, creative women. Fini’s representations of women share such masqueraderie: they are leonine haired, red lipped, buxom beauties, often with tiny pointed shoes and elongated gloved hands. L’Arme Blanche (1936) portrays a pair of nubile women in torn clothing that emphasises their unbridled sexuality, as emphasised by the love potion that literally pours into the composition, while L’Alcove/ Autoportrait avec Nico Papatakis (1941), displays the male masquerading not as a virle master but as a passive Venus. Femininity flows across the sexes as Fini suggests that it is in us all, while her choice of Renaissance-like, theatrical, settings defy a clear narrative bar that of “a world of non-differentiated, or little-differentiated sexes”.

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Leonor Fini, L'Alcove (Self-portrait with Nico Papatakis), 1941, Oil on canvas, 28.75 x 38.5 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Leonor Fini, L'Alcove (Self-portrait with Nico Papatakis), 1941, Oil on canvas, 28.75 x 38.5 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Leonor Fini, L' Arme blanche, 1936, Oil on canvas, 32 x 23.5 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Leonor Fini, L' Arme blanche, 1936, Oil on canvas, 32 x 23.5 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Leonor Fini, Divinite chtonienne guettant le sommeil d'un jeune homme (Chtonian Deity Watching over the Sleep of a Young Man), 1946, oil on canvas, 11 x 16.25 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Leonor Fini, Divinite chtonienne guettant le sommeil d'un jeune homme (Chtonian Deity Watching over the Sleep of a Young Man), 1946, oil on canvas, 11 x 16.25 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Leonor Fini, Rasch, Rasch, Rasch, meine Puppen Warten (Hurry, Hurry, Hurry... My Dolls are Waiting), 1975, Oil on canvas, 44.75 x 57.25 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Leonor Fini, Rasch, Rasch, Rasch, meine Puppen Warten (Hurry, Hurry, Hurry... My Dolls are Waiting), 1975, Oil on canvas, 44.75 x 57.25 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

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Leonor Fini: Unmasking the Being Inside - Features - Independent Art Fair

Leonor Fini, La Maltese, 1943-46, Oil on canvas,
23.5 x 11.5 in. Courtesy of Weinstein Gallery.

Fini’s treatment of the nude reveals a similarly democratic stance whether in the drawing of Italian architect Cesare Pavani III / Nu debout (c1948), or the painting of a woman model for La Maltese (1943-46). Her confident use of blocks of colour and her attention to detail balance abstraction and figuration perfectly. In the former, a pole serves as timeless prop, in the latter an Orientalism is employed, and in both it is the disarming details of brightly coloured socks that lend the images their contemporary sur-reality. Freud wrote of the foot fetish as revealing repressed desires for the parent, noting how a mother who excessively kissed her child’s feet might lead to it. At the same time, Fini’s choice of blue, set against the vital green, in her portrait of Pavani, and choice of a brilliant red for the socks and her own signature for the female portrait, likely mock Freud’s simple binary Oedipal model. As with her repeated portrayal of sphinxes Fini seizes the familiar association and makes it other – the iconography of the sphinx, made popular by Freud and her male surrealist peers, is again taken in a new proto-queerfeminist direction as the femme-fatale is shown triumphant and all knowing rather than decadent or demonic.  Masks and masquerade went beyond the canvas for Fini and spoke to a way of life. In addition to masked balls, she had a penchant for fashioning herself in ways that both startled and impressed international critics, collaborators, and comrades. Soon after her arrival in Paris she famously wore pink silk cardinal stockings to a café rendezvous with the ‘pope’ of Surrealism André Breton, while her friend and fellow woman Surrealist Dorothea Tanning described her in the 1950s as “a legend for amateurs of sensational Paris […] an imperious flash of taffetas and perfume and feathers […] like a canoe in a tidal wave, she fought hard against incarceration in the ghetto of Woman Painters.”  Masquerade in art as in daily life defied hierarchies and categorisation as for Leonor Fini “To wear a costume [was] to move in another dimension, another species and space.”

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Alyce Mahon (she/her) is Professor of Modern and Contemporary Art History and a Fellow of Trinity College at the University of Cambridge. She has published widely on British Surrealism, feminist art practice, and contemporary art, with a particular focus on erotic politics. Recent projects include serving as academic and curatorial advisor for Ithell Colquhoun: Between Worlds for TATE (Tate St Ives and Tate Britain, 2025), the first retrospective exhibition of this British Surrealist, and the essays “Surrealism, Sexuality and the Search for Enlightenment in the Art of Ithell Colquhoun” and “Reflections on Film: Bonsoir and the Queer Female Gaze” (with Sarah Pucill) in the accompanying catalogue. The author of four books, her most recent monograph The Marquis de Sade and the Avant-Garde (Princeton University Press, 2020 and 2025) analyses the work of theatre and film director Peter Brook while several recent essay publications focus on Celtic Surrealist Leonora Carrington, including “Daughters of the Minotaur: Women Surrealists’ Re-Enchantment of the World”, in C. Alemani (ed), The Milk of Dreams: 59th Venice Biennale (2022) and entries in G Ingarao (ed) Carrington: A-Z (2025).

 

1. Leonor Fini, in Leonor Fini/ Pourquoi Pas? exh. cat., Umeå: Bildmuseet/ Umeå University, 2014, p.121.  

2. Ibid, p.127.

3. Joan Rivière, "Womanliness as a Masquerade," Psychoanalysis and Female Sexuality, ed. Hendrik M. Ruitenbeek (1966), p.213. The essay was originally published in The International Journal of Psychoanalysis in 1929.

4. Leonor Fini, quoted in Constance Jelenski, Leonor Fini Peinture, Paris: Vilo, 1980, p.15, my translation.

5. See Alyce Mahon, “La Feminité Triomphante: Leonor Fini and the Sphinx”, Dada/Surrealism, Special Issue on ‘Wonderful Things: Surrealism and Egypt’, Issue 1, no. 19, December 2013.

6. Dorothea Tanning, Between Lives, An Artist and her World, New York: W.W. Norton & Company, 2001, p.181.

7. Leonor Fini, letter to Neil Zuckerman, September 4, 1991, Leonor Fini, The Artist As Designer,  exh. Cat., New York: CFM Gallery, 1992, p.3.